Im going DSMlink w00t

[thomas91169]

just ordered.............

95 EPROM ECU, Socketed for DSMlink or TMO for $300.

i already have a freebie 300mhz laptop with XP on it doing absolutely nothing. just needs a battery.


anyone else use DSMlink around here?

[Shane916]

Lee uses it. Thats all i'm aware of around here. :)

[my3awds]

Best choice in tuning device for the 2G, good job :) Lee knows his way around link now that he's had it for a good while. I think he's even on the DSMLink forums. Pretty easy to use once you know where everything is IMO. Have fun tuning ;)

[EuroEclipse]

yea i just bought it too. we'll be doing our learning together i guess.

[98spydert]

Awsome product, easy to learn. Better than ANY piggy back out there including e-manage and ECU+. Good choice :D

[boostineclipse]

No!! SAFC/MAFT owns ALL!!

[boostdork]

I just need to have my ecu socketed and a crappy laptop. Tho I might go for a nice laptop with RCA out. My Eclipse head has RCA in so i would have the mother of all IPODS :)

Heart transplant complete now just working on the lungs!~
Seth
The Pest

[98spydert]

No!! SAFC/MAFT owns ALL!!

Two piggy backs are better than one huh? lol

4500 rev limiters own all too!!! bwahahah :P

[boostineclipse]

:lol: :lol: No idea what that would be like man~

[EuroEclipse]

hey check overstock.com and get a laptop. i picked up one for $500. it's a P3 1.13ghz with 30gb hard drive space. lan card, dvd rom, etc etc.

[boostedAWD]

hey check overstock.com and get a laptop. i picked up one for $500. it's a P3 1.13ghz with 30gb hard drive space. lan card, dvd rom, etc etc.

i got a laptop for sale if anyone is interested....1.5ghz, 30gig HD, ethernet card, cdrw/dvd drive, 3 year warrenty left on it, etc etc...i'll sell it for less than $500.... :D

[boostdork]

I would want to take a look at it. Sometime sunday perhaps?

[boostedAWD]

I would want to take a look at it. Sometime sunday perhaps?

I assume you are talking to me... :D pm me and we'll work something out...

sorry to jack your thread thomas! :lol:

[thomas91169]

sorry to jack your thread thomas! :lol:

ugh freakin idiot.

does that mean youre gonna get a desktop then?

[boostedAWD]

sorry to jack your thread thomas! :lol:

ugh freakin idiot.

does that mean youre gonna get a desktop then?

maybe if someone buys the laptop....

[thomas91169]

anyways back to topic asshats.

EPROM ECU is in my posession.

though the Laptop that i was going to use, the one thats been shared throughout many dsmers in various states, has seen finer days. the monitor has been pretty flimzy at the mount points to the base, there were cracks and you had to be careful when flipping it up, you had to push at the base and not the top. but i tried that today and it was stuck, so i got in there and the bottom half of the monitor base snapped off from the rest of the monitor. weve been ghetto gluing it the more it cracked, but it finally gave way today. i tried JBweld and lots of it, but it didnt help. the mount hinges themselves have locked up, i tried WD40 but to no avail. they are doneski. i might try to ghetto mount some door hinges to it tomorrow.

so now i might need to add a new laptop to the list of things needed. i know boostedawd is selling his but his is far too powerful and would be a waste to just use it for dsmlink. i just need a cheap ass laptop that has around 500mhz and 256mb ram, for under 200 bucks. id be willing to trade my safc2 and pocketlogger/palm M505 setup for a laptop with the above specs. ill post a ad in the classifieds later on.

[blinded]

Ummm...why don't you try using the Palm you already have?

[EuroEclipse]

like blinded said, you can use the PALM for DSMLink. they have a version of the software available for Palm. the only problem is, sometimes the Palm locks up and you just gotta start over.

other than that... check overstock.com. i picked up an IBM ThinkPad T23 with v.92 56k modem, 10/100 Ethernet card, crappy onboard sound and onboard video cards, PCMCIA expansion slot, 256mb of ram, 30gb hard drive, P3 1.13ghz, AND the most important part, serial port.

$500 like WUT!!!

[blinded]

Actually, aside from new version releases where bugs needed to be ironed out, the Palm client has been bulletproof for me. I've had DSMLink for around a year, and I've never even used the laptop. I couldn't imagine lugging that damn thing around and waiting for it to boot up everytime I wanted to see what was going on or change something on the car. Plus, the Palm client has features not even available on the PC client.

[EuroEclipse]

Plus, the Palm client has features not even available on the PC client.


like what?

[98spydert]

I keep the Palm M130 with me also, works flawlessly. I really don't like using it compaired to the laptop but it does work fine. I get much better sample rates with the PC and it's just easier to use for tuning and logging, for me anyways.

What features are only availible on the Palm client? I guess I haven't even used it in a few months.

[blinded]

Most of the time, if I actually need to work with a large log, I'll transfer and view it on the PC. It's definitely easier to work with log files on a PC. But I always use the Palm in the car for monitoring, logging, or changes. I wouldn't know about the sample rates as I've never used the laptop, but I haven't noticed any difference between my log files and others' on the board.

EDIT: Except for my pesky airflow numbers. :lol:

[thomas91169]

see im sick of the palm. i hate using the pen to start logs. i run pocketlogger and a safc and dont really like the order of operations.

1. get the palm ready to log.
2. get up to 3rd gear
3. press "start" on the palm with the pen while its dangling on your lap
4. HOLD ON
5. slow down and hope the palm stays in your lap
6. now press "Stop" on the log
7. now pull over and use this little ass screen to extrapolate data
8. now focus on the safc and go through its annoying menu's
9. now change fuel curves in 2pt increments
10. now get ready to do it again.

id rather just be cruising along with the laptop in the pass seat open(spilner style), tap enter, take off, then slow and tap enter again, then pull over, and see a way better view of data(along with having a better sample rate and more data feilds viewed at once), then input it in a way more accurate and easier menu, then take off again.

plus id like to take it to work and put it on the back counter and listen to the songs i want to hear at night, and not have to listen to the cooks mexican vato music(no offense, but it sucks). thus the reason for a basic CD player.

[thomas91169]

just ordered

Dell Inspiron 600m
Intel Pentium M 725(1.6ghz/400mhz FSB)
256mb DDR SDRAM (1dimm)
40gb hd
24x CD/DVD-RW(im assuming that means its a DVD-R drive also, if not oh well)
internal 802.11 b/g wireless interace, as well as 10/100 ethernet and lame ass 56k modem(whoopteefucking doo)

it came out to $849 bucks. double what i wanted to spend, but my parents said if i get a used one they wouldnt give me the 350 they would put down on a new one. so theyll put down 350 and ill put down 200 and just pay off the rest 50 a month.



DSMlink better be fucking worth the $1600 im spending on it.(300 for eprom, 500 for dsmlink and 800 for the laptop). but then again im selling the safc and pocketlogger+palm for 300. but still.

[boostdork]

I have hears zero bad reviews of DSM link, and I've seen zero flames from people saying its weak or dosent do thing X or Y.

Having been following the assorted boards for nearly 3 years thats an impressive recomendation from the community.

I just want to turn off my damn random misfire! (for now anyhow)

Getting my ecu out dosent look to be easy tho.

[thomas91169]

looks easy to me, just 3 bolts.

laptop is in(using it to make this post)
dsmlink is in the mail, though the tracking number doesnt yet specify arrival, i hope its before friday since there might be a track day at sac test n tune, that could really help me out getting her tuned and running right.

[blinded]

It's pretty easy. I think there was a vent tube I had to disconnect to give me enough room to slide the ecu out.

Soldering the clutch wire in was a different story. If you're like me and have hands bigger than a five year old's and the shakes on top of that, I'd just use a vampire clip.

[boostdork]

Blinded: I didnt get any shipping updates untill DSM link had ARRIVEd so no worries there.

I got the ecu out easy enough on the left side just had to feel around till i found the 10mm bolts back there (impossible to see them unless your heads 3" thick and hinged at the neck.

[Shane916]

(impossible to see them unless your heads 3" thick and hinged at the neck.

whew :D I'm in luck :P

[boostdork]

What functionality would I loose if I dont put in the clutch wire?

Like would it not work?

I dont have the little pamphlet here at work to check.

[98spydert]

It would work fine, I didn't run the clutch wire for a long time. You just don't have the No Lift to Shift feature or Antilag which you won't need until you get a larger turbo anyways.

[thomas91169]

w00t DSMlink is in.

i found out my car runs at 210* all the time, cause i made it so the CEL comes on at 210 or over, and it came on. put it at 230 and it turned off. i dont know if thats bad or not but oh well.

getting the ecu out wasnt hard at all. took off the kick panels and unscrewed the bottom heater vent and pushed it aside by a inch, then unbolted the ecu.

and is .7* of knock bad? i was assuming 40 counts of knock or over is bad, but i dont know the difference between degrees and counts of knock(assuming there is one)

and my o2 sensor dies after 5.5k for some reason, i think cause its just going out, since it did the same when i was using pocketlogger.

i did a few 12psi runs, then hit the switch and did a 20psi run, but towards 5k i got some knock( .7) so i shut down, not knowing if .7 degrees was alot or not. i posted the log on dsmlink forums.

[98spydert]

No, it's not bad at all. Most say over 2* is bad. I like to tune for 1 or less. 0 makes me happy hehe

[98spydert]

BTW, you're loosing 1* of timing if your coolant temps are over 206*. Might want to do some maintence on the cooling system.

[thomas91169]

yeah i still need to figure out why im not making the amount of boost i should. gotta make me another leak tester. hopefully thats just the problem with the slowness. or maybe my boost gauge is more miscalibrated than i thought(it was 5psi off when i bought it, it reads -5 when car is off)

and then fix my sticky throttle problem. i took the elbow off and sprayed TB cleaner in there and on the throttle cable but to no avail, it still started acting up within a few minutes of driving. im not sure how to adjust it, theres a stop screw i guess that does something. seems people have problems with the dsm throttle cables on hot days.

then clean out the cooling system. how much water wetter should i use? any summer temp mixes of water and antifreeze that i should know about? cool thing about dsmlink is i can keep the fans on all times. is it normal to run hotter than 210*? should i buy a 180* T-Stat also?

and how accurate is the a/f graph setting? i just turned it on and saw im running rich still(10.2-1).
whats a good setting for injector dead time or should i just leave it at 180?
any other graphs that i should be looking at?

bah lee if you werent 2 hours away youd be my best freind right now. i hate feeling like a fish out of water with this thing. but i can already tell its prolly the best 1600 bucks ive spent.

and scrrymer if youre out there, i tried what you asked, and they laughed at me, said "like we havent heard that before" and hung up on me. i had to laugh too.

[98spydert]

A good coolant mixture for the summer is use distilled water and add a bottle of water wetter. It won't do much good though unless your radiator cap is in good condition and you have absolutely no leaks. Before my 1G head swap I would never get above 200 degrees. Cruise and idle would sit down at 196 and only on the hottest days after lots of pulls it would stretch to 201 but that hardly ever happened. Now I've got a small leak and it sits at 210-215 :(

The AFR estimate is only as accurate as your metering device. If you've got boost leaks it will be off. If you're running a MAFT and it's not calibrated right it will be off. Same with the boost estimate.

There are instructions in the 2G tuning guide on how to tune dead time. Its basically comparing trims at idle and cruise. I think it's in the "common downloads" in the Link forums but here it is http://www.winross.addr.com/upload/userfiles/98spydert/tuning%20a%202g%20dsm%20ecu.pdf

I'd seriously look into getting either an electronic boost gauge that's supported by DSMLink or a AEM or GM MAP sensor to log boost with. And pick up a Zeitronix, PLX, AEM, whatever brand wide band O2. It will make life sooooo easy while tuning. There will be no guessing your AFR and you'll just be able to see everything. I finally got my PLX and installed it and tuning isn't even challenging anymore. EVERYTHING is on one graph: timing, temps, trims, GM3bar, PLX WB02, just everything you could possibly need to tune your car on the street. It'll turn your investment into a $2000 total but it will be street tuning heaven.

Like I told Seth last night, best thing you can do right now is fix ALL boost leaks before tuning anything. You won't get wierd AFR, boostest, O2v, or airflow/airflowperrev readings. Everything will make sense.

[thomas91169]

a GM MAP? im assuming you mean GM MAF+Translator right? i didnt think gm's used map sensors.

a maft setup is a wee bit out of my reach as of now.

as for the wideband o2, do you need a full kit or just the sensor? since my o2 is going out as it is, im considering a wideband but i dont want to spend too much. im already over my head by getting dsmlink+laptop(maxed out 2 credit cards almost, something i rarely even touch cause i hate debt)

btw i was playing around and clicked on the IAT/BARO bypass(where it makes it think its 80* air coming in) and my car ran a hell of a lot better. are there any dangers in driving with that on? i know if i go WOT and it thinks its 80 when in reality the temps are 130 ill get nice timing but prolly get some massive knock, but are there downsides do using that feature for just daily driving. i had my AC on with that feature on and the car didnt feel as sluggish as it usually does with the a/c on.

though im sure its bad to do, and i only drove with it like that for a few minutes, then when i started the car again it wasnt engaged so i havent used it since.

[Jon]

a GM MAP? im assuming you mean GM MAF+Translator right? i didnt think gm's used map sensors.

a maft setup is a wee bit out of my reach as of now.



No, I'm pretty sure he means MAP, as he was saying to use it to log boost, and MAP (manifold absolute pressure) would prolly do that better than a Mass Air Flow sensor would.

As for MAFT, I just picked up a brand new MAFT and 3" GM MAF with 3"-2 1/2 silicone couplers on ebay for $250... just gotta keep your eyes out.

[98spydert]

Yeah the MAP sensor reads the manifold pressure like you'd expect, but you can wire the sensor into your harness and DSMLink can log the signal so you'll have actual boost as another parameter on the graph. Same with the Wideband set up. You'll need the whole kit though, not just the sensor. They range from $279 to sky's the limit. The stock air sensor is pretty useless with out the baro, you're probably seein some tip-in knock or maybe worse. Not sure though, might have to ask around on DSMLink forums but I can predict their answer :P

[boostdork]

So, stupid question. Can i use the thing my engine builder drilled into my intake to log boost? It appears to be the map sensor in the top of the for sale forum. Got it with the 6 bolt swap.

Just an idear.

[98spydert]

No, it's a manifold differential pressure sensor. Its only purpose is to sense a change in manifold pressure when the EGR opens. If it senses nothing, it thinks the EGR system is faulty. It flat lines at a couple psi above atmospheric pressure so it doesn't even know what psi you're at.

[thomas91169]

im thinking about getting the PLX-m250 from MachV. now it says it has 2 outputs, the 1v and the 5v, the 1v goes to the ecu o2, but where do you connect the 5v output to?

and is a map sensor just a little sensor that would go into the intake piping somewhere? and where does that get wired into the ecu at?

dsmlink is kinda weird in how everything i want to monitor has to be sent through the ecu first, and not a seperate harness.

[thomas91169]

actually just now after thinking about it,

i bet the 5v goes to the ecu and the 1v can be used with a a/f gauge if you get that little 40$ translator thingie.

[98spydert]

0-1v = simulated narrow band O2
0-5v = wide band output, wire into MDP, IAT, or rear 02 input at ECU

MAP is usually fed from any vac/boost source just like your boost gauge.

[thomas91169]

so the 5v outlet cant be ran to the stock front 02 input on the ecu?

sending the 5v output into the rear o2 wont give me a CEL right?

the 1v output would go into the front o2 inputs, and i could just T off of that and add that 40$ thingie and put that into the o2 gauge(if i have one, might as well use it right?).


and where could i get a map sensor and what are the costs?

[98spydert]

The 0-1v is used to feed your front O2 if you replace your front O2 with the wide band sensor. You don't want to do that on a turbo car because the heat will quickly destroy the sensor. You can have a new bung welded in the down pipe before the cat or if you don't have a cat, you can use the rear bung for the wideband sensor and just take the stock rear o2 out. Then you'd disable the rear O2 via DSMLink and wire the 0-5v output from the PLX (white wire) into pin 76 at the ECU and tell DSMLink you have 'PLXWB02' at the rear o2 input instead of the stock rear o2. Same with the MAP sensor, you can wire the 0-5v output from the MAP (or electronic boost gauge) into the MDP sensor wire or if you're using a MAFT, the baro or intake temp wire. And you could use the 0-1v output from the wideband to feed your narrow band flashy light gauge if you wanted.

[thomas91169]

cool id prolly just get a bung welded before the cat.

and i dont have a flashy light show. its just a needle. i made sure i didnt get lights, couple friends had them in their cars and they annoyed the hell out of me, even as a passenger.

ill prolly go wideband for my next mod, but thatll be in a while.

[thomas91169]

k so i bought a new boost gauge but i havent driven it yet to see what it does.

i also bought a GM 3 Bar Map sensor off ebay. i already looked up the install, and had a question. you can just splice into the current MDP harness, and then just leave the MDP harness dangling while the MAP is hooked up right.

and later on i will be ordering the PLX m250 wideband. though im still not 100% sure what this entails. ill need your guidance when i get there lee. ill prolly also be buying a 3" DP and getting the bung welded on all at once.

[98spydert]

Yep, just leave the MDP unhooked. You don't want signals from two sensors going to the same input. Here's a good install page. It might be the one you've already seen. http://www.martincheck.com/files/mapVFAQ/GM3barmapVFAQ.htm

WB02 is even easier. Only a single wire to wire into the cars harness after the initial install.

[thomas91169]

took the car out today to test out the new boost gauge and see if my hunch was right.

and it ****ing was.

turned out i was really only running 15psi and it was falling back down to around 12ish up top. needless to say i was very happy all day today.

get off work, go home, go to freinds house, play pool.

go home, fill up with 92 octane(oh shnapps the good ****) and head for the back roads.

pulled over, screwed my mbc high side in a few turns, closed hood. turned on laptop, plugged in, turned on dsmlink and zeroed everything out.

then did a run. pulled like a raped monkey. i have never felt the car run so fast in my life. it broke the tires loose at 20psi in 3rd. around 5k i started to get some knock, around 3* that stayed until i let off. thus my timing was around 11*. weaksauce.

so i slid the slider bars into the + range thinking im adding fuel.

take off for a second run, this time i get knock as soon as i reach full boost(CEL comes on after 3* of knock) and it stays till 6k. so i pull over, say "hrm, more fuel". a/f was reading in the mid

move the sliders more into the + range.

then a third run. as soon as i reached full boost the car just bogged down and i immediately let off the gas. WTF is going on. theres no way i could be adding that much fuel(still was only +8 in the sliders).

then it hits me. + is actually taking fuel away, so - should be adding, no other logical explanation.

so i zero it out and set the sliders into the - zone, about 5%. if i was wrong, id prolly run so lean id blow the car up. eh **** it. so i take off, and she pulls even harder than the first run, but i still encountered around 2.5" of knock up top. now were getting somewhere. timing was around 14*.

so i richen(-) it up some more. take off, upon reaching full boost theres this really high pitched sound, like a cat was stuck inside the compressor. aww ****ing a, blew a pipe off.

so i bogged my way the 5 miles from bum**** nowhere to my house.


so now i find my weak spots, my still ebay rubber reducers on each side of the fmic have prolly melted through(havent looked, but it sure sounds from the inlet side one). so i now gotta buy silicon reinforced ones tonight. its ok, since the car hasnt seen 20psi for its whole life, now we get to find all the little things that dont like 20psi.

[thomas91169]

yup 20psi+heat melted a hole right through the inlet side reducer.

new ones on the way directly from hosetechniques. hope they get here soon. ima try to put alot of duct tape and hope it holds enough for me to be able to drive normally till the new ones get in.

[boostedAWD]

yup 20psi+heat melted a hole right through the inlet side reducer.

new ones on the way directly from hosetechniques. hope they get here soon. ima try to put alot of duct tape and hope it holds enough for me to be able to drive normally till the new ones get in.

:lol: nice, duct tape and zip ties......

[98spydert]

(-) takes fuel away and (+) adds fuel. Sounds like the richer you were going, the more "rich knock" you were getting. Was your front O2 pegged a 1.00v the hole time?

How'd you get your CEL to blink at a certain knock retard? I don't see an option for that and I have the latest release. Do you have that Brian?

[thomas91169]

i didnt mean to say theres an option, i just meant to say it started to kinda blink

(btw i copy/pasted this from what i sent to a mustang friend of mine)

my 02 volts were .92-.94.

lee im gonna post the runs on the dsmlink forums so you can see them. i didnt think i could run rich enough with 550's to cause rich knock.

[boostdork]

I get it on 450's

I think my FPR is retarded tho